How this quilt calculator works
Finishing a quilt takes four different calculations, and they depend on each other. Borders change the size of the quilt, and the finished size decides the backing, batting and binding. This planner does them in that order, so you only type your measurements once.
- Borders. Each border adds twice its finished width to the width and the length. Strips are cut 1/2" wider than the finished border for seam allowances.
- Backing. The backing is the finished quilt plus extra on every side (4" by default). The calculator compares a vertical seam, a horizontal seam, a diagonal seam and 108" wide backing, and picks the one that uses the least fabric.
- Batting. Same size as the backing. You'll see the smallest standard package that fits and the yardage from a roll.
- Binding. The perimeter of the finished quilt plus 12" for corners and joining, cut into strips across the fabric.
Example: a 60" × 72" quilt top
With no borders, 4" of extra backing on each side and 2 1/2" binding:
- Backing: 68" × 80". Two panels with a horizontal seam need 136" of fabric, so buy 3 7/8 yards. A vertical seam would need 4 1/2 yards.
- Batting: at least 68" × 80"; a twin package (72" × 90") fits.
- Binding: 264" perimeter + 12" = 276", so cut 7 strips and buy 1/2 yard.
Before you buy fabric
- Measure the quilt top through the middle, not along the edges, which stretch.
- If you plan to prewash, buy a little extra: cotton can shrink a few percent.
- Directional prints may force one backing layout even if another uses less fabric.
- Ask your longarm quilter how much extra backing they need before you cut.